Cosmetic Facial Masks: The Possibilities of New Technology
By Spec Brite Editorial Board
Cosmetic Facial Masks: The Possibilities of New Technology
Face mask is a traditional skin care solution always included in professional care programs and almost always present in professional grade range of home skin care.
How is a face mask different from other cosmetics?
A mask is applied onto the skin surface for a certain amount of time and removed afterwards.
It has a more pronounced effect on the skin.
It is supposed to be used from time to time, not daily.
The distinction is not set in stone, however. Today we have no-rinse night masks (not always easy to distinguish from night creams except perhaps for the instruction to ‘apply generously’) and daily masks (which for many clients end up to be too much of a chore).
Meder Beauty Science Lab (Switzerland) offers 5 facial masks for home use; their active solutions are based on the formulations of the active gels used in Meder Beauty Science’s professional skin care programs.
Meder Beauty Science employs special technology and innovative natural materials to create the masks. The sheets of both home and professional skin care masks are made of Japanese yellow groove bamboo (Phyllostachys Aureosulcata Aureocaulis) fibre. This bamboo species is incredibly resistant to the temperature change and naturally elastic, which enables a ten metre tall plant to withstand hurricanes with ease. Yellow groove bamboo fibre contains natural soothing and hydrating agents and is highly hygroscopic when dried. Bamboo cloth can retain a much larger amount of liquid than cellulose and other materials commonly used to make unwoven sheet masks. Meder Beauty Science’s sheet masks are first dried up and fluffed up to 10 cm thick in order to fill every microcell of the fibre with active gel. The masks are soaked in active solution under pressure up to 15 bar—the same principle is applied to making coffee in espresso machine. The masks are folded and packed in individual sterile sachets made of metallised material immediately after. This way every mask’s fibre contains 30 ml of active solution ready to be released when the mask is in close contact with the skin.
Scientific research of the skin’s penetrability confirms that when epidermis is in contact with water or in close contact with cloth soaked in liquid, the water-soluble ingredients are able to penetrate significantly deeper into the deep skin layers. To further improve the skin’s penetrability when in contact with the sheet mask, Meder Beauty Science uses special enhancers helping the active ingredients get into the skin. To achieve maximum effect of ‘permeable occlusion,’ all masks are soaked in a complex gel on the basis of high-molecular weight hyaluronic acid and olive oil. Hyaluronic acid creates a water cushion providing a link between the mask and the deep layers of the epidermis for the water-soluble ingredients to penetrate into the skin. Oleic and linoleic fatty acids in olive oil ease the penetration of lipophilic molecules. Each mask regardless of its purpose contains innovative peptide Skinasensyl (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15) suppressing the release of histamine and inflammatory mediators which makes Meder Beauty masks suitable even for hypersensitive, traumatised and allergic skin.
Deep sea water in the masks’ active gel is rich in mineral ions in a combination similar to that of the human blood plasma’s ionic composition; it creates osmotic gradient which helps the active ingredients permeate into the deep skin layers. When the active gel is applied onto the skin, its unique mineral composition is ‘recognised’ by the skin as its own easing and accelerating the penetration of all mask’s ingredients.
2 to 4 applications of a mask a month are enough for visible effect. The skin should be cleansed before using the mask and preferably exfoliated as well (double action enzyme exfoliant Enzy-Peel Ez2 is a good choice). A serum an a concentrate suitable for the client’s particular skin needs are advisable.
Position the mask on the face, pressing lightly for better contact with skin, and secure it in place with the elastic band supporting your chin and the slits for your ears on both sides of the mask. If secured properly, the mask stays in place so if you don’t have to be lying down the whole time you can sit and read or do something else instead. 20-25 minutes’ time is enough for a pronounced effect. After that the mask should be removed and the remaining gel gently rubbed into the skin until fully absorbed.
5 Meder Beauty Science home care masks correspond with 5 professional non-invasive treatments correcting major aesthetic problems.
Hydra-Fill HF5 Mask: Cascade Hydration
Hydra-Fill mask revitalises and moisturises the skin layer after layer increasing hydration from the surface layers of the epidermis inwards. Latest discoveries on the hyaluronic acid’s impact on the skin combined with biotech anti-oxidants were put into the creation of the mask’s active gel. Hyaluronic acid of various molecular weights permeates the skin layer by layer, attracting like a magnet nourishing and revitalising water molecules. The ‘magnetic molecules’ restore the cell communication re-establishing the skin’s regeneration process and reducing its reactivity and sensitivity. The skin’s thirst quenched, it becomes smoother and more even, toned and elastic.
Dehydrated skin loses its protective functions and to compensate for that Meder Beauty Lab includes special components in the Hydra-Fill masks. These components pull water into deep skin layers, restore the protective mantle’s ability to retain water and create a therapeutic breathable film on the skin surface healing damaged skin and promoting its regeneration.
The special feature of Hydra-Fill mask is its ability to simultaneously moisturise the skin and brighten it reducing pigment spots, evening out the complexion and smoothing rough skin surface. Its anti-oxidant action effectively reduces the number of free radicals in the skin and suppresses the ageing process.
Hydra-Fill mask is known among beauty professionals as the ‘Photoshop mask’ because it instantly evens out the skin’s surface and complexion, just like a visual editor. It can be applied as an instant beauty mask as well. Hydra-Fill mask contains the ingredients reducing the negative impact of tobacco smoking and stress on the skin, and is therefore recommended to smokers and urban dwellers.
Low, medium and high-molecular weight hyaluronic acid
Arma-Lift AL5 Mask: Anti-Age Firming Mask
Arma-Lift is a firming mask restoring the skin’s youth and resilience, hydrating and evening out the complexion. The sheet mask is soaked in active moisturising and stimulating gel easily permeating into the skin. This gel saturates upper skin layer smoothing and filling the skin, and at the same time biopeptides in the mask reach deeper skin layers and affect the cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The concentration of active ingredients in the mask is very high for immediately visible effect.
The skin becomes thicker and more elastic, pores tighten and wrinkles decrease. Arma-Lift mask has a beneficial effect on the skin in the eye area, eyelids and lips reducing crow’s feet and the purse string wrinkles around the mouth. The lower part of the mask supports the jawline reducing age-related sagging and sculpting the facial features. Soothing the skin, Arma-Lift mask decreases its sensitivity as well.
Not only does Arma-Lift Mask prevent ageing, but it also actively improves atonic, tired, mature skin already showing multiple signs of ageing. It can also be applied as a restorative solution after traumatic procedures: laser rejuvenation, chemical peelings, cryotherapy and others. Epidermal Growth Factor enhances all healing processes, making Arma-Lift mask suitable for skin preparation before plastic surgery and other traumatic treatments affecting the facial muscles and skin.
Organic Vitamin E
Organic Vitamin A + E Complex
Eu-Seb ES5 Mask: Matting, Anti-Inflammatory and Normalising Mask for Oily and Problem Skin
The sebaceous glands in oily skin produce excessive sebum (the skin’s waxy or oily matter), more attractive for various pathogenic bacteria because it contains a lot more sugars, and is thicker and more viscous than normal. The changes in the sebum lead to the persistent feeling of ‘greasy skin’: in a few hours after cleansing the skin looks shiny, the enlarged pores get clogged causing the appearance of blackheads, and the skin looks uneven and bumpy because of constantly occurring sebaceous plugs.
Eu-Seb mask affects the deep skin structures decreasing the activity of sebaceous glands and cleansing the skin from within. The mask’s active ingredients change the sebum’s composition replacing thick and viscous fats with light omega fatty acids with antibacterial and healing effect. Vegetable extracts act as disinfectants restoring the skin’s healthy microflora and reducing inflammation. Anti-inflammatory agents penetrate deep into the pores and hair follicles creating antibacterial pools, normalising the skin and restoring its protective properties.
Eu-Seb mask restores micro circulation, improves the skin’s oxygenation and helps remove toxins. In the first few weeks of using the mask the soothed skin becomes healthier and smoother with less blackheads and breakouts and a more even complexion.
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Aloe Ferox Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lipo-Oval LO5 Mask: Face Slimming and Anti-Puffiness Mask
Lipo-Oval mask contains the agents activating metabolic processes in the skin and fatty tissue of the face. The mask’s active ingredients stimulate the drainage of excessive liquid from hypodermic tissue quickly reducing malar bags and bags under eyes, improving the skin’s tone and resilience. Lipo-Oval mask stimulates the splitting of fatty tissue as well, instantly slimming the face and sharpening the facial features. Regular use leads to the reduction of double chin and restoration of sharper jawline; the face looks rested and visibly slimmer.
Gaining body weight tends to make the face fuller and with time it grows heavier as well. The growing fatty tissue ‘slides’ down stretching the skin and creating deep nasolabial creases, the corners of the lips droop and double chin appears. The process is related to gravity-related ageing. The regular application of Lipo-Oval mask helps prevent ageing and maintain the elasticity of the skin in the face and neck.
Persistent facial puffiness calls for the application of Lipo-Oval every morning for one week. The effect of one application lasts several days.
Dioscorea Opposita Root Extract
Pueraria Mirifica Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Myo-Fix MF5 Mask: Rejuvenating and Mimic Wrinkle Smoothing Mask
Myo-Fix mask subtly reduces the excessively active facial expressions correcting mimic wrinkles and rejuvenating the face. Myo-Fix mask contains innovative biotechnological peptides reducing the mobility of facial mimic muscles, filling in the existing fine lines and wrinkles, making the face look effortlessly serene.
Personality is mirrored in the facial expressions more and more with age: our emotions create a mimic mask of sorts. Anxiety, stress and other negative emotions are most often reflected in the wrinkles on one’s forehead and the bridge of the nose, drooping corners of the mouth and narrowed unhappy eyes.
The peptides in Myo-Fix mask reduce the skin’s mobility by limiting the contraction of the mimic muscles’ ends intertwined with the skin. The muscles themselves remain mobile, but their ends stretch the skin less reducing the depth of wrinkles and leaving the face looking calmer.
All the mask’s peptides are very small molecules easily penetrating into the skin. Studies show that the first application reduces the mobility of mimic muscles by 20–30 percent and with the regular use the muscles of the upper third of the face may become 50–60 percent less active in their surface parts.
The neuromuscular blocking (myorelaxant) peptide-based cosmetics is commonly nicknamed ‘serene face solutions’.
All Meder Beauty Science can be used by both men and women at any life period. The Lab staff would advise aesthetic professionals to recommend the masks to their patients both during active treatment course and for before and after any traumatic procedures including facial surgery, as well as for the clients’ regular use at home to maintain the skin’s health.